There was an almost monastical vibe filtering through in Graig Green’s spring collection, on show last week at London Fashion Week Men's. The collection, like all of Green’s, explored unconventional ways in which to present the concept of ‘man’; realised conceptually and physically through the structural ways in which his clothes were uniquely formed.
Green opened the show with a model adorned with a strange appendage, an item that felt akin to the type of banner you see carried ahead of a religious procession. Or, more staunchly, the model could have been a devout follower with an alter strapped to his body. This self imposed restriction felt ecclesiastical in a sense, a feeling that continued into Green’s intriguingly bound and ruched sportswear, as well as into his denim, with it’s centrally located cutout acting as a portal for the spirit to transcend. Conceptually, these garments felt like manifestations of that deep, internal struggle, one that asked that shared, eternal question - what is it to be man?
As the range developed, so did the tone with the introduction of colour, geometrics and illustrative prints. These were seen on voluminous cloaks that appeared as a more optimistic version of a monk’s habit, and promised, perhaps, a more light-filled future.
E. Tautz showcased it’s unique take on tailoring once again for spring (above and below). This brand has continually managed to straddle that great divide between contemporary fashion and bespoke tailoring, it’s latest range offering a looser, more casual interpretation.
Long, oversized jackets were seen over cropped shorts, the hem of which only just poking out from underneath. Most of the silhouettes followed this oversized trend, with wide shorts, safari jackets, pleated pants and large, baggy sleeves. The palette was neutral with soft blues, warm greys and shimmering rusts that were made into a pair of striking jackets seen mid way through. It all created an extremely easy, but modern aesthetic that favoured the generous over the uptight. A perfect tone for the summer months.