Almost bubbling behind the scenes, Maison Margiela has been gaining momentum. While names like Vetement, Dior and Balenciaga have been grasping at our attention, Galliano’s mad genius has been in full flow producing concise collections full of creativity, imagination and vigour.
For fall, his collection hit the warp-speed button into the future where climate, politics and everything else has been turned upside down. Giant duvet sleeves were worn with mis-matched jacketing under piles and piles of other garments. This heavily layered aesthetic comes from Galliano’s idea of “dressing in haste”, a look inspired by his own haphazard way of dressing when taking his dog for his evening walk. Innocent as this starting point may be, the style has an ominous, post-apocalyptic feel to it – where whatever can be gathered together is salvaged and worn. A sobering metaphor when considering what has been happening across the world in recent times.
Mixed with this however is a futuristic nod, one that wears reflective fabrics and neoprenes with a staunch and defiant attitude, and revels in innovative cuts that tear apart traditional garments. It’s nomad, but with a strong streak of rebellion at it’s core. And one, that despite the brands older, conceptual heritage, is resonating more and more with the ever desirable, younger audience.