Jil Sander is a name synonymous with 90’s minimalism, and yet since the departure of the woman who shaped the brand in 2000, the label has floundered. In recent years the brand has seen a number of creative directors attempt to steer the brand back to its peak - and yet, perhaps unfairly, each range has been criticised for missing the mark.
The latest to step into the shoes of this famous brand are designers Lucie and Luke Meier. Both come with impressive backgrounds, with Lucie arriving from Dior and Luke from OAMC and Supreme.
For their first collection for Sander, the pair have helped us rediscover the softer side of the brand. Part of the issue with the continual attempt to resurrect the label is that 90’s minimalism just isn’t on trend at the moment, something the Meiers were keenly aware of. This clarity led to a collection that chose to focus more on the craft side of Sander that usually gets ignored, “what she did was also feminine, light and sensual; that was the approach for us”. The crispness of the brand was still seen, however this was offset with softer shirting, macramé accents, delicate pleating, voluminous cuts and precisely smocked, ethereal white dresses. The natural fibres were contrasted with light, tech fabrics that became as loose and draped as some of their natural counterparts, and helped bring a modern edge to the almost classical tone.
It’s hard for a brand that’s founded on a reductive aesthetic to compete when the world is chaffing at the bit for eccentric glamour. However, there’s something about the Sander brand under the Meirer helm that seems to resonate on some level, it felt new and full of potential. Let’s see where their next collection takes us.