For their second showing of Kenzo subsidiary brand, Kenzo Momento, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim dove directly into the brands archive, pulling out references from Kenzo Takada’s first foray into denim from the 1970’s.
Takada was never one to play by the rules, and bringing the traditionally American material to the Paris catwalk only confirmed his intention of doing things his own way. Much the same can be said of Leon and Lim who have continually attempted to push the boundaries of what we know as traditional catwalk show.
For spring, their showcase featured a traditional Japanese theatre group, acting out a story of past and present, a metaphor perhaps for the collections rediscovery of Takada’s original denim pieces. 30 percent of the clothes were pulled directly from the Kenzo archive, a reimagining no, but rather a reintroduction of garments that were on trend then, and interestingly seem even more so now. The collection focused heavily on this industrial fabric with wide-legged jeans with heavy contrast stitching, overalls, wrap-around shirts and worker’s jackets. From there, the prints that we’ve come to love from this brand entered with force. Bamboo fields covered full suits, 8-bit clouds were woven across knits, and Hawaiian fauna was collaged over shirts, shorts and bikinis. It all made for what was a particularly buoyant show, relaxed in aesthetic with their floppy bucket hats, white socks and jelly sandals.