The return of Galliano at the house of Margiela is a triumphant one. His signature creativity has found a new home in the inside-out world of this legendary house. For Spring, Galliano says he’s “inspired by the idea of proposing a new glamour - the idea of dressing in haste!” His reference for this inspiration comes from his time sitting in airports, watching passengers descend from aircrafts dishevelled with one arm in an overcoat, the rest slung over their shoulder, a bag scrunched up next to their body. This awkward arrangement of garments speaks directly into the Margiela aesthetic where clothes are meant to be looked at differently.
Continuing on from his couture show, the collection opened with mackintoshes cut off at the shoulder and bound in at the waist, the camel punctuated by a traditional hunting red. These hacked up garments quickly made way for delicately pleated versions, oversized suit jackets, and beautiful transparent fabrications. These were sometimes ‘decorated’ with a strange ostrich feather, skeleton-tee, that was worn over just about anything. It was the hero deconstruction of the range, and it formed a cage of sorts, that bound the various garments altogether.